OMEGA Speedmaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer Moonphase Chronograph

The Iconic one. The Speedmaster – where words cannot express the impact of this timepiece on the watch industry or the inspiration it has brought to so many watch lovers since 1957. What can exceed a pedigree of such tantamount proportions as being the only officially-recognized timepiece to have graced the surface of the moon?

This year, we are delighted with the extraordinarily special Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Moonphase Chronograph Calibre 9904. Admittedly, that is a mouthful, but as we review the characteristics of this sophisticated timepiece, you will discover that the prolonged name is accurately descriptive and befitting.

The Case

The case design is broadly similar in appearance (excluding size) to historical Speedmaster moon models.  At first glance, the case seems identical to previously available models utilizing calibre 9300.  Upon closer evaluation however, the Omega has slightly redesigned the rear of the case.  By reducing the rise of the exhibition crystal, the timepiece can now sit closer to the wrist.  This is especially profound because the opposite would be expected due to the addition of the moon phase complication.

At 44.25mm in diameter and 16.8mm in thickness, the timepiece feels sturdy and robust. This is consistent with the performance expectations associated with the Speedmaster designation. Sapphire crystals adorn both the front and back of the timepiece and are treated with anti-reflective coating.

The bezel, depending on specific model, is crafted of stainless steel, 18k Sedna (rose) gold or 18k yellow gold.  Each bezel is fitted with a ceramic insert (black, blue, brown or dark green) infused with a liquid metal tachymeter scale on steel bezels and a gold infused scale for gold bezels .

Bearing in mind that I prefer heftier pieces, the weight of the timepiece (119 grams) is appropriate for its size and depth, and is structurally well distributed.  On the wrist, the timepiece feels well-proportioned and very comfortable.  The robust construction coupled with refined cash finishes manifest unmistakable masculinity and elegance.

The Strap (and bracelet)

Currently, there are five variations of this model.  Four of the models are available on a leather strap (Blue, Brown, Black or Grey), featuring a single-fold over deployant buckle.   A bracelet is available for the black dial/black bezel variation.  The bracelet and clasp are seemingly the same design as available on previous models.   As compared to historical moon watches, the bracelet has evolved significantly over the years and is notably more refined aesthetically and structurally.

Dial and Hands

Omega produces very finely-finished and structurally-sound dials. In fact, in my 17 years at the bench, I do not recall seeing a single dial index detached from an Omega dial.  Indexes and hands are generally crafted of solid gold (exceptions where alternate materials are functionally beneficial). Using solid gold is a rather costly design imperative and I applaud Omega for providing this high level of finish, as less costly materials could have been used (and generally are in the industry) without much fuss or consequence.

The ultra-rich blue dial of my test model radiates with depth.  The chiseled sword hands filled with white Super Luminova, glow a cool green when the lights go out.   At 9 o’clock, resides a unique horse-shoe shaped hand which moves around the register to display the date.  A shorter hand, also at 9 o’clock, exhibits the running seconds.  At 3 o’clock, two hands display a 60 minute and 12 hour recorder for the chronograph complication.  A central chronograph seconds recording hand sits above the hour and minute hand and can be initiated (via the upper push button) for accurate timekeeping applications.

The magic happens at 6 o’clock with a very unique 10 year moon-phase cycle display.  Omega officially describes it as a “Metallic crystal disc microstructured to obtain a high resolution image of the moon.  The fine detail includes the first footstep left by Neil Armstrong on the Sea of Tranquility.”  It looks as cool as it sounds, surreally dimensional.  The current phase of the moon can easily be set by reversal of the crown in the date setting position.

The fine detail includes the first footstep left by Neil Armstrong on the Sea of Tranquility.

 

Movement

As a Watchmaker, I could devote this entire article to the movement alone.  Omega has been raining innovation when it comes to movement design and production.  However, I will restrain myself to discuss only the most pertinent characteristics and functions.

With this one exception!  Several years ago, after a bout of extreme watch lust and the accompanying psychological drama, I was fortunate enough to have acquired an Omega Ploprof 1200M.  Omega quietly inserted calibre 8500 (an in-house movement introduced in 2007) into this beast of a timepiece.  The Ploprof 1200M did not have an exhibition back and I had little interaction with this new calibre.  Naturally, I decided to take a peek under the hood and was floored.  The finish of the movement was superb and immediately distinguishable from previous Omega offerings in the dive watch category.  The movement featured blackened screws, a blackened balance wheel and two blackened barrels (housing the mainsprings).  It was a hyper sexy and tough looking machine, like a really gorgeous goth girl. I remember thinking how odd it was that Omega did not feel the need to display such a beautiful movement (through an exhibition back).  I knew that with this timepiece, the water resistance functions were best served with a solid back.   However, a much less expensive, more common mechanism could have been used without much commercial consequence.  At that moment it became apparent that Omega is going to manufacture timepieces to a standard and not a price-point.  OK… Back to business…. 

Calibre 9904 utilizes a dual barrel design, with 2 mainsprings powering the timepiece.  Multi barrel systems are often employed sequentially for the purpose of lengthening the power reserve. However, Omega has chosen a different application, where the barrels co-mingle in series or parallel to support a more stable torque drive, hence more stable performance of the movement.  This increase in efficiency graces an already efficient mechanism which is centered on the co-axial escapement, a system which significantly reduces friction and wear within the regulation system of the movement.  The power reserve of the movement remains a generous 60 hours.

Calibre 9904 features a full chronograph, allowing accurate recording of seconds, minutes and hours.  A vertical clutch is integrated for an efficient and eloquent transfer of energy from the movement to the chronograph upon initiation of the chronograph.  Timepieces utilizing a horizontal clutch display a noticeably more twitchy seconds-recorder hand during chronograph initiation.

For smooth operation of the chronograph functions, a column wheel is present.  As compared to a cam system, the column wheel provides more fluid, defined and accurate control of the chronograph start, stop and reset facilities.

The movement is also resistant 15’000 Gauss of magnetism.  This is a great functional achievement as magnetism has historically been a formidable nemesis to the performance of mechanical timepieces.

Movements are certified through METAS and must perform within extremely tight timing tolerances under intense temperature, activity and magnetic fluctuations.

This movement features similar decoration and finish to the drool-worthy Calibre 8500 as described in my dramatic testimony above.  Blackened screws, blackened barrels, blackened balance wheel, Geneva waves and rhodium plated bridges and rotor—macho and yet pretty.

Specs

The timepiece was tested in 6 positions (to simulate gravitational changes) at Full Wind and Full Wind Minus 24 Hours.  The official tolerance for average daily rate is 0 to +5 seconds a day.  This is notably tighter timing than required by COSC certified timepieces (-4 to +6 seconds per day).  The average daily rate results (as represented by variable X on the graphs below) fit comfortably within the noted tolerances.

To summarize, at full wind, the average daily rate was 4.4 seconds.  After 24 hours, the average daily rate tested at 4.1 seconds.  Other testing parameters, such as the amplitude and beat error, were all very well within the manufacture’s tolerances.  The timepiece performed exactly as expected.

My Take

Recently, I have been scheming of a way to convince my Wife that I need a Speedmaster. I am a Watchmaker for goodness sakes! As such it would be negligent of me to not have the iconic Speedmaster in my collection.  This may be the time! This may be the one! Blue dial or grey dial? I want to hear your feedback!!!

Until Next Time,

Art Bodin

About the Author:

Arthur decided to follow in the tradition that began with his great-grandfather, and become a watchmaker himself.  Under the guidance and instruction of his father, Arthur followed a comparable path and traveled to study watch making with the finest manufacturers.  In 2003 he also started traveling to train at watch manufactures including: Rolex, Omega, Longines, Cartier and Panerai. Some of the trainings, such as the trip to Omega, Art completed with his father, Igor. Although he’s quite comfortable behind the jeweler’s bench, Arthur takes even more pride and joy in discussing fine timepieces with Hyde Park’s clients as he does in servicing watches.